1. Why Do I Need the Best Cotton Thread?
A: Only long-staple cotton threads have the necessary strength required by high-speed machines.
This is why Valdani threads are made out of the finest quality of long-staple Egyptian cotton.
2. Why Do I Need Hand-Dyed Threads?
Many of you must have noticed and got frustrated with the definite lines between colors... on top of your quilt! - where else?...
This comes from the abrupt color transition of variegated machine-dyed threads, as muchl as from the mono-chromatic color sections.
With hand-dyed threads, the smooth color transition and rich shading within each color section give you the beauty of painted-thread, highly contributing to the artistic quality of your project.
Valdani threads are ALL minutely hand-dyed in over 450 rich colors, through an artisan process of true craftsmanship and Art.
3. Why Do I Need Colorfast Threads?
It happens over and over again!...You hardly finish a project after countless hours of work and the first wash ruins it!...This is true for most machine-dyed threads and ALL hand-dyed ones. EXCEPT for Valdani!
We are very proud to be the only manufacturer who creates Hand-Dyed threads that are 100% GUARANTEED COLORFAST!
In ALL colors! ALL variegates, solids and overdyes!
4. Are Dye-Lots Identical?
The Valdani threads are Hand-Dyed; even the solid colors. This means that there is much less control of the color than with machine-dyed / industrially-dyed threads. Unfortunately not even the latter can boast 100% identical dye-lots; far from that!
At Valdani our dyers are making huge efforts to identically repeat the shade from batch to batch. This is not technically possible, as it depends upon uncontrollable factors. Thanks to expensive procedures though, we can confidently assert that our threads have the best color consistency compared with the other Hand-Dyed threads on the market.
5. What Uncontrollable Factors Influence the Color Outcome?
The dyeing process, especially the Hand-Dyeing one, is influenced by many uncontrollable factors. Among the most important of these factors we need to mention:
- the shade of the raw material/ cotton - depends upon the respective harvest in a rainy or dry year.
- the quality of the cotton - there can be differences in quality between different harvests of the same type of cotton.
- what the weather is like while the respective dye-lot is being made - a rainier day will make the color different from the one achieved on a sunny day.
- the temperature outside (see above).
6. What Thread Weight Should I Use?
What thread weight should I use?
Our 60wt. thread is equivalent to regular sewing thread.
It is excellent for piecing, sewing, machine embroidery (with the software your machine comes with), bobbin work, machine lace-making, scrap-book stitching.
Our 50wt. is slightly heavier than regular sewing thread. Excellent for piecing, sewing, beautiful in quilting when you do not want too heavy a thread.
Our 40wt. ( The CottonLook Poly) is slightly heavier tha our 50wt., great for quilting, stitching, heavy-duty sewing.
Our 35wt. is a highly decorative quilting thread, for both machine and hand. This is by far the most popular quilting thread when you want the thread to really enhance the beauty of the quilt.
Our Pearl Cotton size 12 is one of the most decorative thread we manufacture that you can put both on top and in the bobbin of your machine with most beautiful results. Excellent for machine and hand quilting, machine and hand embroidery, hardanger, decorative stitching, needle punching, crochet, miniature knitting, tassel and fringe-making.
Our Pearl Cotton size 8 is a heavier thread, highly decorative, that you can use in machine and hand couching, hand embroidery, hardanger, decorative stitching, needle punching, crochet, tassel and fringe-making.
Note: our Pearl Cottons are slightly heavier than DMC in the same size.
"Machine Embroidery" Weights
Our 40wt. rayons and polyesters are the regular machine embroidery threads that you use with the software your machine comes with.
Excellent for machine embroidery.
Our 80wt. Unique Twist is a fine thread, excellent for high-density machine embroidery. You use the software your machine comes with.
7. Is My Bobbin to Blame for Broken Threads?
Read about Janni White 's amazing discovery:
"Long Arm Quilting Machines:
Broken threads, stress and disgusted but happy!
For more than a year, I would go through periods of total disgust and stress over inconsistent thread tensions, backlash and broken thread. I would make an adjustment and when I changed bobbins things would go haywire!! I tried every imagined process and was still inconsistent in my tensions and broken thread. I became convinced that the problem was confined mainly in the bobbin case some how. I tried everything I could think of. Without boring you with all the trial and errors, I just mention a few conclusions that I came up with.
(1) Most of my problems came after changing a bobbin!!
(2) A lot of my problems were associated with needles other than Schmitz.
(3) Many problems were associated with the method in which the bobbins were wound.
(4) The main problem was the fact that not all my bobbins were the same thickness!!!!!
(5) The bobbin case spring was inadequate for the variations in bobbin thickness thus BACKLASH and lo & behold, guess what, broken threads. I tried various methods including the STAR washer for the large bobbins and got the same results. I used a piece of batting behind the spring this method seem to work well until I unknowingly inserted a thin bobbin and again the backlash and broken thread began with a bobbin change.
(6) The bobbin winder did not wind a good bobbin the tension and spool centers were too close, only 8 inches. (The 930 Bernina has 11 inch centers and winds a perfect bobbin in the slow speed.) The variable speed was also a problem in that it was difficult to maintain a constant and this changes the consistency of wraps on the bobbin. When the full bobbin disengage apparatus puts pressure on the thread as the diameter of the thread increases, this also affects the thread wraps and may cause backlash in the bobbin case.
As you can see my efforts concentrated around the BOBBIN.
OK what did I do to correct MY problem? Please note, all my changes have worked for me and if you are not having a problem may I suggest ?don?t mess with it, if it ain?t broken?.
(A) I replaced my bobbin winder apparatus with one that has a 10 inch spool to tension discs centers. I added a constant variable motor switch. I run the motor as a somewhat slow speed and get perfect bobbins. I disengage the full spool manually.
(B) I have a 1-inch dial micrometer and I measured all my (aluminum) Bobbins.
I put them into 2 categories one thick and one thin. I use the thick ones. The thin ones range up to .012 thinner than the thick ones.
(C) I discarded the bobbin case spring and use a self made thin washer that prevents backlash and my thread tensions remain constant, except for a single turn on top tension one way or the other depending on the size thread I am using.
(D) I purchased a 7gal air tank that I keep filled via my outside compressor.
This setup with flex hose and nozzle is handy when cleaning the hook area and needle clamp area of fuzz! Also cleans the rails nicely.
I have been using this method for a month now and just changed my fiber cloth washer for the first time. Never have I been so pleased with the success. No broken threads, no missed stitches. I feel confident when the machine sound changes it?s not the broken thread but an empty bobbin! If you want more detailed info you can e mail or phone me @ (541) 271-4807 it?s all free.
A-1 owners, Wayne & Janni http://www.janniquilt.com "
8. My Thread Is Breaking. What Can I Do?
1. Have someone else watch the thread path as you sew...sometimes a person can spot the problem area, but not unless the machine is going....
2. Change back to a thread you used successfully before that did not break, using a sample piece (with the same weight batting, if you are quilting). If it still breaks, look at the tension adjustment check spring.
- For Longarmers: check the "arm", it should be at 10:30 o'clock (halfway between 9:00 and 12:00on a clock). -
3. Try rotating the needle a tad to the right so the thread enters the needle hole at a better angle. The edge of the needle hole may be abrasing the thread and building up a pile of "lint" that won't go through the hole, so it breaks.
4. ...sometimes when quilting the fabric is too tight. You need a little bit of bounce in the quilt top and backing. If it is too tight it will break your thread.
5.- For Longarmers: "I found that I fought with my machine for about 4 weeks, until I got the handle on how to touch her. She beat me into submission. It does get better. The intermitent tensioner on the Gammill is about the most frustrating thing I have ever encountered, because it only takes an eigth of a twist one way or another and all h... breaks loose. I would try threading the machine differently through the three-hole thing and don't be afraid to adjust the tension on the bobbin. In order to get mine to work with the kind of stitch that I like my bobbin tension is a lot looser than normal. Everyone's machine is different from the next, what works on might be completely opposite on another."
6. - For Longarmers: "When I first got my machine I had the same problem. My top tension just needed to be too tight to get a balanced stitch so I loosened my bobbin tension to where the bobbin will literally drop to the floor if I let go of the thread. This is looser than A1 recommends (and other manufacturers as well), but for me and my machine it works best. Then, you can loosen your top tension up and still have a balanced stitch." -A-1 owners, Wayne & Janni http://www.janniquilt.com "
9. My Thread Is Leaving Too Much Lint...
Try changing to a bigger size needle to diminish friction. An embroidery needle works best.