Hand-dyed threads are often considered better than machine-dyed threads because they offer several unique benefits:

1. Variation: Hand-dyed threads tend to have more variation in color and texture, which can add depth and interest to your stitching projects.

2. Richness: Hand-dying often results in a deeper, more richly colored thread that can add dimension and vibrancy to your work.

3. Unique: Each batch of hand-dyed threads is unique, so you can be sure that your projects will stand out.

4. Artistic expression: Hand-dying is a form of artistic expression, and the dyer's personal touch and creativity can add an extra layer of beauty and meaning to your work.

Machine dye threads have abrupt color transitions forming definite lines on top of your quilt or in your embroidery.  With hand-dyed threads, the smooth color transition and rich shading within each color section give you the beauty of painted-thread, highly contributing to the artistic quality of your project. Valdani threads are ALL minutely hand-dyed  in over 330 rich colors, through an artisan process of true craftsmanship and art.

Of course, not all hand-dyed threads are equal, and the quality of the dyeing process and the fibers used can greatly impact the overall look and feel of the thread.

Only long-staple cotton threads have the necessary strength required to last through multiple washes, wear and tear and through time. Your work is a work of art that deserves to last through generations. This is why Valdani threads are made out of the finest quality of long-staple Egyptian cotton.

It happens over and over again! You hardly finish a project after countless hours of work and the first wash ruins it! This is true for most machine-dyed threads and ALL hand-dyed ones, EXCEPT for Valdani! We are very proud to be the only manufacturer who creates Hand-Dyed threads that are 100% GUARANTEED COLORFAST!
In ALL colors! ALL variegates, solids and overdyes!   

The Valdani threads are Hand-Dyed, even the solid colors. This means that there is much less control of the color than with machine-dyed / industrially-dyed threads. Unfortunately not even the latter can boast 100% identical dye-lots.
At Valdani our dyers are making huge efforts to identically repeat the shade from batch to batch.  This is not technically possible, as it depends upon uncontrollable factors. Thanks to expensive procedures though, we can confidently assert that our threads have the best color consistency compared with the other Hand-Dyed threads on the market.

Our 50wt. is slightly heavier than regular sewing thread. Excellent for piecing, sewing, beautiful in quilting when you do not want too heavy a thread.

Our 40wt.  ( The CottonLook Poly) is slightly heavier tha our 50wt., great for quilting, stitching, heavy-duty sewing.

Our 35wt. is a highly decorative quilting thread, for both machine and hand. This is by far the most popular quilting thread when you want the thread to really enhance the beauty of the quilt.

Our Pearl Cotton size 12 is one of the most decorative thread we manufacture that you can put both on top and in the bobbin of your machine with most beautiful results. Excellent for machine and hand quilting, machine and hand embroidery, hardanger, decorative stitching, needle punching, crochet, miniature knitting, tassel and fringe-making.

Our Pearl Cotton size 8 is a heavier thread, highly decorative, that you can use in machine and hand couching, hand embroidery, hardanger, decorative stitching, needle punching, crochet, tassel and fringe-making.
Note: our Pearl Cottons are slightly heavier than DMC in the same size.

Read about Janni White 's amazing discovery:

"Long Arm Quilting Machines:

Broken threads, stress and disgusted but happy!

For more than a year, I would go through periods of total disgust and stress over inconsistent thread tensions, backlash and broken thread. I would make an adjustment and when I changed bobbins things would go haywire!! I tried every imagined process and was still inconsistent in my tensions and broken thread. I became convinced that the problem was confined mainly in the bobbin case some how. I tried everything I could think of. Without boring you with all the trial and errors, I just mention a few conclusions that I came up with.

(1) Most of my problems came after changing a bobbin!!
(2) A lot of my problems were associated with needles other than Schmitz.
(3) Many problems were associated with the method in which the bobbins were wound.
(4) The main problem was the fact that not all my bobbins were the same thickness!!!!!
(5) The bobbin case spring was inadequate for the variations in bobbin thickness thus BACKLASH and lo & behold, guess what, broken threads. I tried various methods including the STAR washer for the large bobbins and got the same results. I used a piece of batting behind the spring this method seem to work well until I unknowingly inserted a thin bobbin and again the backlash and broken thread began with a bobbin change.
(6) The bobbin winder did not wind a good bobbin the tension and spool centers were too close, only 8 inches. (The 930 Bernina has 11 inch centers and winds a perfect bobbin in the slow speed.) The variable speed was also a problem in that it was difficult to maintain a constant and this changes the consistency of wraps on the bobbin. When the full bobbin disengage apparatus puts pressure on the thread as the diameter of the thread increases, this also affects the thread wraps and may cause backlash in the bobbin case.

As you can see my efforts concentrated around the BOBBIN.

OK what did I do to correct MY problem? Please note, all my changes have worked for me and if you are not having a problem may I suggest ?don?t mess with it, if it ain?t broken?.

(A) I replaced my bobbin winder apparatus with one that has a 10 inch spool to tension discs centers. I added a constant variable motor switch. I run the motor as a somewhat slow speed and get perfect bobbins. I disengage the full spool manually.
(B) I have a 1-inch dial micrometer and I measured all my (aluminum) Bobbins.
I put them into 2 categories one thick and one thin. I use the thick ones. The thin ones range up to .012 thinner than the thick ones.
(C) I discarded the bobbin case spring and use a self made thin washer that prevents backlash and my thread tensions remain constant, except for a single turn on top tension one way or the other depending on the size thread I am using.
(D) I purchased a 7gal air tank that I keep filled via my outside compressor.
This setup with flex hose and nozzle is handy when cleaning the hook area and needle clamp area of fuzz! Also cleans the rails nicely.
I have been using this method for a month now and just changed my fiber cloth washer for the first time. Never have I been so pleased with the success. No broken threads, no missed stitches. I feel confident when the machine sound changes it's not the broken thread but an empty bobbin!

Having Fun
Happy Quilter
A-1 owners, Wayne & Janni http://www.janniquilt.com "

If your thread is leaving too much lint, there are a few things you can try to resolve the issue:

1. Change the needle: Using a needle that is too small or too large for the thread can cause excess lint. Try using a needle that is specifically designed for the thread you are using.

2. Adjust the tension: Loose tension can cause thread to unravel, producing more lint. Adjust your machine's tension to see if that resolves the issue.

3. Clean your machine: Lint can accumulate in the bobbin case and other parts of your sewing machine, affecting the performance of the machine and the quality of your stitching. Clean your machine regularly to remove any built-up lint.

4. Use a lint roller: Before beginning your project, run a lint roller over your fabric to remove any fibers that may contribute to lint buildup.

5. Always use a as a high-quality mercerized cotton or silk thread to avoid lint building.